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| Feeding: |
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The fertilizer formulations that lawns need vary at different times of the year. In the spring more nitrogen is needed to replace what has been leached from the soil in winter and to green up the lawn. You could consider using a nitrogen based fertiliser with a selective weedkiller which will also control most annual weeds.
A fertilizer with more potassium should be given in late summer which replace the nutrients removed during mowing and toughens the grass ready for winter.
To keep moss at bay use a fertiliser that includes iron sulphate.
Lawn fertilizers are usually applied as granules or powder and these release nutrients over a period of several weeks or more. They should be applied when grass is in growth, when the soil is moist and before rain is forecast so that the fertilizer will be washed into the soil.
It is well worth buying a good fertiliser spreader - one that spins the fertiliser on, rather than one that drops it out through the bottom. This ensures that the fertiliser is applied evenly. To avoid scorching on the overlaps, especially if a feed and weed killer mixture is used, apply half working up and down and half the feed working from side to side to get an even coverage.
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| Some species of grass produce more horizontal growth than others and this can build up to a point where it needs to be removed to allow healthy growth. Scarifying is really a pruning process and is done using vertical blades that cut into the top of the turf mat.
The frequency of scarifying necessary depends upon the type of turf, and the maintenance regime. For example, a turf containing ryegrass needs very little, if any, scarifying because of the tufted growth characteristic of the ryegrass. A turf containing no ryegrass is likely to need scarifying at least every two years because of the lateral growth of bents, fescues, and smoothstalked meadowgrass. In addition, if the turf is regularly fertilised and watered the growth rate will increase, resulting in a faster build-up of the turf mat. In this situation lawns will benefit from scarifying every year, preferably during the early autumn.
Scarifying involves raking vigorously with a spring-tined or sharp-toothed rake, pushing it well down to pull out the dead grass or moss and break stem of creeping grasses. Scarify two weeks after using a moss-killer to remove the dead moss.
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| Aeration: |
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Grass roots need air in order to support healthy growth. In a well-structured soil there are lots of natural air pockets. During wet weather the soil becomes soft and if the lawn is used heavily the soil structure is damaged, the air pockets are destroyed, and grass growth suffers. Aeration is a means of getting air back into the soil by punching holes into the lawn to a depth of about 100mm. All lawns benefit from aeration at some stage with heavily used lawns needing treatment more often. It is possible to aerate small areas with a garden fork or hollow tine, but it is very hard work! For larger areas it is better to hire a mechanical aerator or slitting machine.
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| Top dressing after aeration: |
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Top-dressing can be used to fill holes left by aeration, to keep the passage open and to feed the grass and stimulate growth, or to fill in and level small hollws in the lawn surface. Top-dressing usually consist of a mixture of sand, peat substitute and loam. Either use a spreader which can be hired or apply evenly with a shovel and use a stiff brush to even out any excess and to work into the grass.
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| Lawn weeds: |
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Greenblade turf arrives completely free of weeds. A dense, healthy lawn will make it difficult for weeds to encroach so regular maintenance will go a long way to keeping it weed free. Hand weeding will deal with small numbers of weeds and ensure that the numbers do not build up. If a herbicide becomes necessary use a proprietary weedkiller at the recommended rate.
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| Moss infestations: |
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The best defence against moss is to keep your lawn strong and healthy. Weak grass growth can be caused by a number of factors: waterlogging, shade, mowing too short, too little fertiliser, drought. Try to correct the cause of the problem. However, moss will tend to creep into even the best lawns and so to keep it at bay make sure that your spring fertiliser contains iron sulphate.
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| Lawn pests and diseases: |
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Most lawns suffer from few pests and diseases and these can often be tolerated on general-purpose lawns. Fine-leaved grasses can be prone to a few common diseases if they are not growing strongly but early treatment can prevent long-term damage. Other lawn problems may be caused by the nature of the site or by algae, moss or lichen. Always consider treating the cause of such problems, such as drainage, removing fallen leaves, fertilising correctly before using chemicals. Although lawn pests are not easy to control with chemicals there are useful sprays that can be used against the most common lawn diseases. Unless the problem has been experienced in previous years it should not be necessary to apply preventative sprays. Remember not to mow immediately before or after spraying chemicals on to the lawn, and heed manufacturers’ instructions about restricting pet’s access after spraying.
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| Cats and dogs: |
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Urine often burns lawns; more so in dry weather. Pour water over the soiled areas. Use repellents. Re-turf patches that have been badly affected.
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| Worms: |
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Worms may bring casts to the lawn surface, especially in the autumn. Simply brush away the casts.
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| Leatherjackets: |
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These larvae of crane flies feed on grass roots, causing brown patches in spring and summer. An effective method of control is to cover the lawn with a plastic sheet at night to draw them to the surface. Remove the plastic early in the morning for birds to eat them.
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| Chafer bugs: |
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These creamy-white, brown-headed grubs eat grass roots during the summer but they are usually far fewer in number than leatherjackets and rarely require action.
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| Ant hills: |
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These are usually a problem only on dry, sandy soils. There are chemical treatments to apply to the centres of the hill, which can be opened up using a spade.
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| Toad stools: |
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Toadstools feed on organic matter in the soil. They should be brushed off as they appear to prevent spore production. Rings of them are difficult to control with chemicals.
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| Lichen: |
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These flat leaf like growths indicate impoverished soil, although shade may cause their presence. Improving the growth of the grass or applying lawn sand will help.
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| Slime mould: |
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These strange-looking fungi are a sign that the lawn is badly drained. The surface of the lawn should be aerated or the whole site drained to prevent the mould spreading.
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| Algae: |
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This green or black slime is a sign that the lawn is poorly drained. Lawn sand usually kills algae quickly but it will reappear on consistently wet lawns.
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| Snow mould (Fusarium): |
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Often in small areas but can spread. It occurs in autumn and under compacted snow. Scarify; avoid high-nitrogen feeds in the autumn.
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| Red thread (Corticum): |
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A problem only on starved, fine-leaved lawns in late summer, when leaves look bleached and covered with red threads. Strong turf however usually recovers.
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| Dollar spot: |
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| This fungal disease causes straw-coloured patches up to 5cm across. It is most common on fine turf and can be prevented by removing thatch through scarification. |
